Things the skincare industry doesn’t want you to know (that I’m going to tell you, so you can shop more savvy)

This actually goes for the beauty industry as a whole.

I'm not a derm, a doctor, or even an aesthetician. But I have worked in beauty for almost 20 years and tried thousands of products. And even more importantly, I developed my own line of award-winning skincare that launched into 70 retailers including Cult Beauty and Harrods.

The skincare industry is ridiculously cluttered, and not all products are created equal. As marketers (guilty), our job is to convince you that everything new is the latest and greatest, and that you need an expansive beauty arsenal in order to complete an adequate regime.

Now don’t get me wrong, I love a new moisturiser as much as the next person. But in a world of overconsumption, it doesn’t hurt to be armed with the knowledge (and cynicism) of what’s really achievable with your skincare (and beauty) purchases.

Here's what I want you to know about the skincare industry so you can shop more savvy.

So many products are the same

Often brands buy a formula off the shelf and just add to it to make something 'new'. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the performance of these products, but if you're out there trying to find your holy grail skincare, it's likely that a lot of your beauty arsenal is essentially the same - and you could be wasting time and money. This actually goes for every lipstick and every other beauty item you’ve ever purchased.

Even products made from scratch often share similar ingredient combinations. Plus, not all products are equally efficacious.

It costs money to include active ingredients

If a product is too cheap for what it claims to include, it might not be very punchy. Think of it like this - for a product to reach you:

💲 The brand needs an advertising budget, so you hear about the product.
💲 The brand owner needs to make money from selling its formula.
💲 The manufacturer needs to make money from making the product.
💲 The packaging maker needs to make money.
💲 The retailer needs to make money from selling the product.
💲 Royal Mail needs to get paid to post you that product...

You get the picture - by the time everyone's got paid, how much do you think is left to actually make the formulas that you’re using on your face?

You can’t work a miracle

Whether you're buying Augustinus Bader and La Prairie or The Inkey List and The Ordinary, skincare can only do so much to change the appearance of your skin. If you really want to see a difference, you need to head to the clinic for the actives and the injectables. So don’t be too dissatisfied with the results from your at-home routine - be realistic.

Be wary of buzzwords

“Natural”, “chemical”, “toxic” - don’t buy into the marketing jargon. Instead, consider what aligns with your values and works for your skin. I do like a natural products - I enjoy the fragrances, and I like to consider the ethical practices of a company - but it’s not the be-all and end-all for me. I shop some vegan, but I don’t eat vegan.

Personally, I don’t have the patience to breakthrough the barrier of using a highly active product like retinol (for me, it causes breakout, and I don’t want to wait for it to clear up; I’d rather just have averagely clear skin, consistently).

You also can’t go wrong with French Pharmacy brands in my book (I worked with a pharmacist on Eau Thermale Avène who was passionate about the use of preservatives in products, despite the negative press they can receive).

Don’t be misled by greenwashing, cleanwashing, or sciencewashing - products sold in the UK from any well-known retailer have to go through a stringent process before being stocked. So generally, you’re in safe hands - just know that not everything will suit your skin needs.

Consistency, like for any good habit, is key to getting results

If you keep switching up your routine and trying different products, you won't see real improvement. Worse, you can end up doing more harm than good - breaking out and unsettling your skin.

Targeted treatments are good for a particular concern - like a spot treatment - but day to day, aim for a consistent routine.

Money talks

The brands you know most about probably have the biggest marketing budgets, but that doesn’t mean they’re the best for your skin. They just have the means to reach you - so stay alert.

SPF, every god damn day

I know you know this, but it would be remiss of me not to say it: use SPF every day, even in the winter. If you're not protecting, you're wasting time correcting.

Do you really need an eye cream?

A lot of people believe you don't need an eye cream. I do, however, find that for me, a targeted eye treatment helps with makeup application. Whether or not my eyes are de-puffed and less shadowed (I think my concealer mainly helps with that) is neither here nor there.

Building the right skincare routine

Double cleansing does help, but you don't need two different cleansers for this. You can use the same one in the morning and twice at night and still benefit from the results.

Do you need a toner and an exfoliator? I’ve seen a zillion arguments for and against both - so I can’t tell you what works for you. I don’t personally bother. Occasionally, I’ll use a face and body exfoliator if I’m tanning, but I don’t notice a big difference in my skin if I leave them out.

My top skincare advice?

Build a routine that works for you and stick with it. Subscribe, get the benefits of the discount, and the convenience of having it delivered without a second thought. Job done.

What am I using in my skincare routine right now?

I was a genuine Faace loyalist for the last five years, so it's sad for me a lot of our top sellers are currently sold out. Right now, I'm using:

• Make removal: Peep Club Soothing Coconut Eye Balm

• Cleanse: Dirty Faace Gel Cleanser

• Moisturise: Dr Hauschka Rose Day Cream

• Protect: La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF50

• Eyes: Estée Lauder Daywear Cooling Antioxidant Eye Cream

• Maintenance: Peep Club Instant Relief Eye Spray

I’m pretty happy with the results, but also keen to get into the clinic soon to up my game.

I’m sure there’s more to this, but for now, these are my thoughts…

What are you using right now? Was this content helpful and would you like more beauty advice? Give me a ❤️ below.